Step 1 · Photo guide

How to get the most accurate offer

Every item you want paid for has to be identifiable. We price from verified eBay sold results, and a sold result exists for an exact item — not for “a box of toys”. So each item needs to be readable somewhere: in its own close-up, or in a numbered group photo where its name, maker or number can actually be read. Anything we cannot identify cannot be priced, and we will not guess at it.

That is the only hard requirement. It does not mean one photo per item. For a large collection, an itemized list with quantities plus organized numbered group photos does the job — the steps below say exactly how. If something is still unclear after you submit, we pause that part of the quote and text or email you for the one specific view we need; your reply attaches to this same submission.

  • Identify, do not just show. A photo counts when we can read what the thing is: card/issue number, maker, year, model/style/SKU, scale, barcode, serial, or the grading label. A pretty photo with no readable detail does not count.
  • Wipe your camera lens and use bright, even light. Names, numbers and labels must be sharp enough to read, not just visible.
  • For individual items, photograph 1–2 items at a time and let the item fill most of the frame.
  • Take a clear front photo plus the identifying back, bottom, tag or label. For sealed items, do not open them just for us.
  • Tell us how many. If you are sending more than a handful, give us an approximate total count and a short itemized list with quantities — in the Bulk collection boxes below, or by text. Without it we can only price the items that happen to appear in a photo.
  • Show condition problems clearly: stains, tears, bends, scratches, missing pieces or damaged packaging. Flaws we can see are priced honestly; flaws we find later change the offer.
  • Grouping by type is optional — helpful, never required. If it is easy, keep cards with cards and die-cast with die-cast; if it is not, send them however they are and we will sort it out.
  • Avoid: glare, blurry labels, overlapping piles, cropped-off tags/numbers, or photos showing only the generic back of packaging.

See it: front, back, identifying detail

These examples show the useful angles. Two views of the same item are one item, not two items in your list.

AI-generated instructional example of a full action figure photographed from the front on a clear surface
1. FrontShow the entire item and packaging, if present.
AI-generated instructional example of the same toy photographed from the back with its accessories separated
2. Back + accessoriesTurn that same item over. Include all parts.
Close-up example showing a legible clothing brand and size tag for item identification
3. Readable detailsCapture numbers, maker marks or a tag.
Action-figure images are AI-generated instructional examples, not customer merchandise or pricing evidence. See all five recommended photo angles →

Bulk collections & piles (10+ items)

Two things make a collection priceable: a manifest (what is in it, and how many) and photos organized so each item can be identified. Steps 1 and 2 are the manifest; the rest is the photos.

  1. Your approximate total count. Roughly how many items altogether — “about 450” is a perfectly good answer, and an estimate is expected. We confirm the exact count together at drop-off, so nobody has to count a pile twice. Put it in the How many items box below.
  2. An itemized list with quantities. One line per item or group, naming it and saying how many: “12 Boyds Bears, tagged”, “3 Barbie dolls, 1990s, boxed”, “~200 Marvel cards, 1992 Impel”. Approximate quantities are fine (“~” is welcome). Use the Itemized list box below, or text it to us — whichever is easier.
  3. Overview first. One or two wide photos of the whole collection, so we can see the scale of it.
  4. Then organized, numbered groups. Lay the items out in small groups on a plain surface, nothing overlapping, and photograph one group per photo. Number the groups (group 1, group 2 …) and use the same numbers in your list, so each line of the manifest points at a photo.
  5. Readable closeups of each unique item. This is where the individual identification actually happens. More angles of the same item do not help us — a photo of a different item does. Repeat angles only when the identifying detail is on another side.
  6. Valuable items individually. Anything you believe is worth the most gets its own photos, never a group shot. Under-photographing one good piece costs you more than every common item put together.
  7. Front, back and base. The front, then whichever side carries the name, maker mark, model/style number, tag or date stamp — usually the back or the bottom.
  8. Damage, up close. Photograph every chip, stain, tear, bend, missing piece or damaged box. Flaws we can see are priced honestly; flaws we find later change the offer.
  9. Grouping by category is optional. Cards with cards, die-cast with die-cast, plush with plush — it makes the numbered groups easier for both of us, and we are happy to receive a mixed pile instead. Never re-sort a collection just for us.

You do not need one photo per item for a large collection — the manifest, plus numbered groups, plus closeups of the unique and valuable pieces, is what we need. What we cannot do is price items nobody named and nothing shows: those come back to you at $0 rather than as a guess. If anything is still unclear we will text or email you for the exact missing views, and your reply attaches to this same submission and code.

Collection photography: overview, then numbered groups

First show the whole collection, then separate items into countable groups and match each group number to your itemized list.

AI-generated example of a collection organized in countable rows
Whole collectionOne overview with approximate total count.
AI-generated example of a small countable group of action figures
Numbered groupMatch this photo to a line in your quantity list.
AI-generated layout examples, not actual consignor merchandise.

What a priceable photo looks like. The difference between the two columns is not photography — it is whether we can name the exact item from the photo.

Best results

One card, front
Same card, back
1–2 items, separated
Clear label or tag

Harder to value

Overlapping pile
Distant table photo
Glare
Blurry text or numbers
Watch a 12-second valuation tip (video)

See the photo demonstrations above for what to include with your submission.

Optional — tips for what you have. Pick a category to see which detail identifies it. Sorting your collection into these categories is entirely optional; it only makes the numbered groups easier.

Trading cards

  • Front and back of each card
  • Card number, set, year and maker
  • Any insert, parallel or hologram
  • The grading label, if it’s slabbed
  • Large collection: an overview, then representative groups, then individual photos of anything unusual or premium
Trading card identification example showing clear card front and readable details
Card exampleShow the front, back, card number, and any grade or surface damage.

Comics

  • The full front cover
  • Issue number and publisher
  • Visible condition and any major defects
  • The back, if it carries identifying info
  • Potential key issues: an individual photo of each

Die-cast / toys

  • The front, and the bottom or back
  • Maker, model or item number, and year
  • The packaging, if you have it
  • Condition: paint wear, missing parts, box damage
Toy packaging examination highlighting visible product information and condition
Toy exampleCapture the model or maker mark and any box damage without hiding it.

Clothing

  • Front and back
  • Brand tag and size tag
  • Style/model number, or the material/care tag
  • Any damage or stains, up close
Example of clothing tag photography showing brand, size and identifying information
Clothing exampleThe tag and style number can distinguish lookalike garments.

Other collectibles

  • The front, and the back or bottom
  • Maker marks and labels
  • Serial or model numbers
  • Packaging, if any
  • Condition, up close
Comparison of a collectible with all original parts versus an incomplete one
Condition exampleShow what is present, what is missing and any visible defects.

Open the full photo guide — the five shots for one item, how to lay out a group, bulk-collection passes, a quantity-list template and seller FAQs.

Step 2

Collection details

What do you want to do? (required)
Watch: Sell outright or consign? (12-second video)

Outright: request a cash offer. Consignment: we market and sell the items, then settle the proceeds under the agreed fees and commission. Neither option guarantees a particular price or sale time.

Large collections · the manifest

Bulk collection: approximate count & itemized list

Skip this for one or two items. For a pile or a collection it is the manifest from step 1, and it is what lets us price the whole collection instead of only the items that happen to appear in a photo. Approximations are expected — a rough number beats a blank box.

An estimate is fine and expected — “about 450”. Do not count a pile for us: the exact count is confirmed together at drop-off.

One line per item or group — name it and say how many. Approximate quantities are welcome (“~200 cards”). Grouping by category is optional. If you numbered your group photos, use the same numbers here. Already sent us the list by text? Leave this blank; we have it.

Step 3

Photos

Tick the box at the end of step 1 (photo guide) to unlock photo upload.

Up to 100 photos at once. For consignment, you may submit the application first and add photos later if your phone is having trouble uploading them.

Paste a link instead — Reddit, Imgur, Google Photos, Drive, anywhere. We’ll review the whole collection from there, no re-uploading and no batches.

Step 4

Review

Your photos will show here once you add them in step 3.

Step 5

Submit

By submitting, you agree we may text you about your quote. Standard message rates may apply.

Local showroom · 1302 Monte Vista Ave #21, Upland CA
Questions? Text (909) 870-7095